Choose the Right Practice Ammo
So, you’re going to the range. Maybe to train, maybe to plink, probably a little of both. You have your gun, or guns, loaded up, along with necessary stuff like eye and ear protection. And, of course, you’ve got ammo. But do you have the right ammo? Believe it or not, all freedom seeds are not created equal, and I don’t mean quality-wise. Did you choose the right ammo for the task at hand?
Answering that question affirmatively is important, so we’re here to help you make those choices. It’s not difficult, even if you’re a new shooter. You old hands may roll your eyes, but such things are not always apparent at first, especially with all the information new gun owners are faced with. So, if you aren’t certain or have no idea at all, take a moment to read further.
What’s the Task?
Firearms and ammunition are tools like anything else. Think of guns and ammo like drills and bits. The drill is worthless without the right bit for the job. The same is true of firearms and ammo. The gun is the drill, and the ammo is the bit.
Range tasks vary. One day, you might zero an optic and spend some time plinking. Another time, you may be shooting at a distance. The next trip might involve defensive drills. There’s lots to do, and your ammo choice matters, but fortunately, choosing the right ammo isn’t hard. Let’s briefly hit the different types of ammo in terms of range work.
Recreation
“Recreation,” in this case, means shooting for fun. The only limit to that is your imagination. The fun increases when you don’t spend a fortune on ammo. Whatever firearm you shoot for fun, look for inexpensive full metal jacket rounds. Full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo costs less because it’s easier to manufacture. It’s basically a lead bullet lined with copper or other metal, along with the brass case. You may even find cheaper steel-cased ammo, depending on your firearm of choice. Just make sure your gun can handle steel cases since they’re a little harder on the chamber.
FMJ rounds also tend to feed better than soft-nose or hollow-point bullets because they are smoother. Guns can be picky about defensive rounds, but they’re rarely picky about FMJ rounds. And there’s no need for expensive hunting or defensive rounds anyway. You’re just wasting money. You may not want high-velocity ammo, either. It costs more, and the recoil may be higher than you want for plinking. Just make certain the velocity is high enough to cycle any semi-auto action you may be using. Your owner’s manual will give you that information.
The perfect revolver target rounds are wadcutters. Wadcutters are specifically designed for target shooters. The bullets are smaller, and they produce lower recoil than other rounds. They’re called “wadcutters” because they actually punch holes in paper targets, making it easy for the shooter to see where they hit. Wadcutters are not recommended for semi-auto pistols because the bullet’s nose is flush with the case, making it more difficult to cycle and more likely to jam.
Hunting
I’ve been a hunter for almost 50 years. While I’m no Ron Spomer, I’ve spent my fair share of time carrying a rifle through the woods. My advice for range work is to shoot the ammo with which you hunt or intend to hunt. There’s no point in shooting anything else unless you also use your hunting rifle for plinking. That’s probably unlikely, given ammo prices, but it could happen.
Responsible and ethical hunting means accurate shooting. Know where your round will hit the animal. You will learn that on the range by zeroing and practicing with your hunting loads. Don’t set yourself up for failure in the woods by practicing with cheaper ammo. I should also note that most hunters do not even approach the round count generated by competition shooters and those training for self-defense. So, don’t think you’ll be firing hundreds or even dozens of rounds per session. It’s just not necessary.
Competition
Competition shooting is like hunting. Shoot the rounds with which you compete. It makes no sense to do otherwise. That applies to rifles, pistols, and shotguns. Your rifle and pistol rounds will be full metal jacket rounds, though I doubt you’ll use the cheap stuff. Remember, FMJ is generally more reliable than other rounds. You’ll need that to compete effectively.
Self-Defense
Self-defense applications are the most “complex” when it comes to range ammo, but even that isn’t difficult. Let’s start with handguns, then we’ll talk about rifle ammo.
Defensive Handgun Training Ammo
Most people who carry a handgun for self-defense use dedicated defensive rounds. Those might have soft-nosed bullets but are more likely some kind of hollow point. You should train with your defensive ammo to ensure proper function in your firearm. As noted, guns can be finicky about such rounds. Find one that your gun likes.
You’ll also want to be familiar with your ammunition’s performance and recoil since it may be a little different than your training ammo. Unless you have Elon Musk money, you will have separate training ammo because defensive rounds are far more expensive than FMJ target loads.
Match your training ammo’s bullet weight, measured in grains, to your defensive ammo. Depending on which gun I’m carrying, I use either 115-grain or 124-grain 9mm defensive rounds. So, when I train with those guns, I use the same bullet weights in my practice FMJ rounds. Remember, you should practice with your defensive rounds, but it isn’t necessary to do it every range trip. I probably shoot a magazine’s worth every 3 or 4 outings.
Defensive Rifle Training Ammo
Defensive rifle ammo is mostly different from defensive handgun ammo. I train with the same rifle ammo I hoard for zombies most of the time, but not always. You need to be aware of a couple of things. First, you should know your rifle barrel’s twist rate. The most common twist rate for AR-15 barrels is 1-8. That means the bullet undergoes one revolution every 8 inches as it engages the barrel’s rifling. The spin creates stability as the bullet flies downrange. The lower the number, the more stable the bullet. 1-9 and 1-7 twist rates are also common. A 1-7 is the most stable of the three and capable of handling heavier bullets. A 1-9 twist rate provides the least stability and is better with lighter bullets.
The most common 5.56 bullet weights, in my experience, are 55, 62, and 77 grains. I’ve occasionally run across some 90-grain ammo, and there are others that I’ve never actually encountered. I have ARs with 1-7 and 1-8 twist rate barrels. I prefer 62-grain rounds for both, though I often shoot 55-grain ammo because it’s so common. They both handle 77-grain rounds well, and my 1-7 rifle can go even heavier. But I never do, and I rarely use 77-grain ammo. That’s just a personal choice. 62-grain works great for me, and I like it. Find what works for your rifle and train with it.
Second, M855 Green Tip 5.56 ammo is fine for paper targets, but it will be harder on steel targets than regular 5.56 or .223 rounds. I buy the Green Tip stuff if that’s the best deal, but I don’t buy it exclusively, and I make certain I use it on paper only. It’s also not appropriate for defensive ammo since it will likely over-penetrate.
I shoot 122, 123, or 124-grain rounds from my AK, mainly because it’s the most available. AKs typically have a 1-9.45-inch twist rate. The 122-123-grain bullets are perfect for that twist rate. I see no reason to do anything else. Practice with the ammo you’ll use during the Zombie Apocalypse. That’s 122, 123, and 124-grain ammo for my AK, and 55 or 62-grain ammo for my ARs.
If you employ other rifles for home defense or whatever, follow the same principle unless you use pistol-caliber hollow points. In that case, refer to the handgun section.
Buy the Right Ammo for the Job
The key to self-defense training is volume and repetition. Expensive ammo doesn’t lend itself to that principle. I get that no ammo is cheap anymore, but some types are less expensive than others. Use FMJ whenever possible, but also throw in a few defensive rounds to keep your expectations right.
Hunting and competition shooting all but require running the same ammo you use for real. The expense will vary based on your hunting and competitive applications. Shooting a deer at 100 yards is very different than taking an elk at 800. Same with 3-gun competitions and long-range precision shooting. You need the right ammo for each, and that includes training for those shots. Plinking is plinking. Buy the cheap stuff.
Just understand that every shooting application requires the right ammo. Resources abound to help you find that ammo. Do a little research, and you’ll be maximizing your range time in no time at all.
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